The End of the Beginning
My first stop was Nacula Island known for hills and volcanoes! It is the 3rd largest and as far North as I could get in the Yasawa group of Islands.
After about a day on the boat I arrived and was welcomed with dancing and singing and provided with the best hospitality by 4 guys that pretty much ran the whole place. They were very generous and respectful. My first day out snorkeling from the beach I saw two types of rays- Manta and Blue Spotted Sting Ray but was faced with the realization that coral around the world is dying and changing at such a rapid rate that i was witnessing it in my lifetime.
I was invited to church in the village Sunday morning but needed to find something that could cover my shoulders and knees to even be allowed to venture into town.
4 nights on the Nacula Island was enough to finish two books. I even tried to bribe a naughty little girl to play with me using my last blow pop from my Baylor going-away party, but she wanted nothing to do with me or my free swim lessons! That didn't stop her from swimming all day in her church dress.
For the next few nights I decided to go to a place called Gold Coast on a recommendation from my host in Nacula. He said I could skip the high prices of a nearby resort-blue Lagoon and just walk over the hill or around the island at low tide to swim from their famous beach for free. So of course I was sold. Looking at the map as we pulled away from the island on a little speed boat i was having doubts because it just didn't quite make sense but i wasn't about to doubt him now. We rode full speed for about 30 mins before arriving and i quickly realized i would be the only guest on this little home-stay. I was greeted by a sweet family and told there would be no electricity, which by now i was pretty use to. For the rest of the day Romeo (my new dog best friend) and i slept on the hammock, and then the beach until we couldn't sleep any longer and it was dinner time. At dinner I was joined by Auntie, who filled me in on island life, rugby , the recent cyclone and gave me a lesson on making my own coconut oil! I guess she could see that i was being attached by mosquitoes because she suddenly stopped talking and sent me to my hut and told me to get into my net and not come out until i was called, so.... I RAN! The breeze and sounds of the ocean were blissful and soothed my INSANELY itchy skin. This place would definitely not satisfy most but I was finding it pretty perfect at the moment.
After about a day on the boat I arrived and was welcomed with dancing and singing and provided with the best hospitality by 4 guys that pretty much ran the whole place. They were very generous and respectful. My first day out snorkeling from the beach I saw two types of rays- Manta and Blue Spotted Sting Ray but was faced with the realization that coral around the world is dying and changing at such a rapid rate that i was witnessing it in my lifetime.
I was invited to church in the village Sunday morning but needed to find something that could cover my shoulders and knees to even be allowed to venture into town.
4 nights on the Nacula Island was enough to finish two books. I even tried to bribe a naughty little girl to play with me using my last blow pop from my Baylor going-away party, but she wanted nothing to do with me or my free swim lessons! That didn't stop her from swimming all day in her church dress.
For the next few nights I decided to go to a place called Gold Coast on a recommendation from my host in Nacula. He said I could skip the high prices of a nearby resort-blue Lagoon and just walk over the hill or around the island at low tide to swim from their famous beach for free. So of course I was sold. Looking at the map as we pulled away from the island on a little speed boat i was having doubts because it just didn't quite make sense but i wasn't about to doubt him now. We rode full speed for about 30 mins before arriving and i quickly realized i would be the only guest on this little home-stay. I was greeted by a sweet family and told there would be no electricity, which by now i was pretty use to. For the rest of the day Romeo (my new dog best friend) and i slept on the hammock, and then the beach until we couldn't sleep any longer and it was dinner time. At dinner I was joined by Auntie, who filled me in on island life, rugby , the recent cyclone and gave me a lesson on making my own coconut oil! I guess she could see that i was being attached by mosquitoes because she suddenly stopped talking and sent me to my hut and told me to get into my net and not come out until i was called, so.... I RAN! The breeze and sounds of the ocean were blissful and soothed my INSANELY itchy skin. This place would definitely not satisfy most but I was finding it pretty perfect at the moment.
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| Gold Coast "Resort" |
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| Roof life |
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| home sweet home |
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| Me and Romeo |
I Woke up early for breakfast...it was about 6 crepes and a saucer of jelly. Carbs and sugar are the worst possible breakfast combination for me but there really isn't much choice so I ate as many as I could, thinking I was going to miss lunch as I had a long day of exploring planned.
Well, I literally watched the ocean for about 5 hours until the tide FINALLY went out and I could follow the coastline to the other side of the island and snorkel the famous Blue Lagoon . I was told that Romeo, the dog, would be my tour guide , I was a little skeptical of his sense of direction when he started out across a huge canal between two islands where I was going to have to roll up my shorts, and so I stayed close to the edge and followed a shallower path. I think Romeo was pleased I disobey him when we ran smack into about 6 wooden stalls each filled with huge angry pigs and their squealing babies. Romeo barked and stirred up each box until I admitted I was wrong and turned back to wade through the deep water as Romeo had first shown me.
Once I was headed in the right direction, Romeo played and hunted through the canal while I kept a look out for any sea snakes lurking in the mangroves. On one side of the channel was the private -Turtle island. My host family's sister-in-law was a house keeper there back a few years ago when Britney Spears stayed and also for Jennifer Aniston. We made our way around the island to the tip and I could easily identify blue lagoon by the small motor boats resting in the waters surrounded by snorkelers. So I quickly dropped my bag and headed into the water with my mask. Romeo didn't hesitate either and swam right along side of me just like he'd done it a million times. He lasted about 20 mins before going back up to the beach for a little nap. There were a few fish but mostly dying coral. The boat operators where feeding the fish which i think is the only reason any fish were sticking around at all. But people seemed to be pretty impressed. I was keeping one eye on my stuff and one on Romeo and so I was able to watch as a local boat operator threw coconuts at Romeo until he ran off. I considered asking him why he'd run my innocent dog off but I figured it was just business as usual and I had to walk through a few resorts to get back home so figured better now than later.
Next day breakfast was about 25 donuts with another side of jelly.
The next island stop was to Drawaqa Island and a stay at Barefoot Manta with a chance to see the migration of the enormous Manta Rays. Despite the name, Barefoot Manta wasn't so barefoot friendly after the Cyclone with debris and construction everywhere. I met a French guy who was training for a triathlon and was able to join him a few times for long swims into the ocean to hopefully burn off the mountains of carbs I had been living on the last week.
Well, I literally watched the ocean for about 5 hours until the tide FINALLY went out and I could follow the coastline to the other side of the island and snorkel the famous Blue Lagoon . I was told that Romeo, the dog, would be my tour guide , I was a little skeptical of his sense of direction when he started out across a huge canal between two islands where I was going to have to roll up my shorts, and so I stayed close to the edge and followed a shallower path. I think Romeo was pleased I disobey him when we ran smack into about 6 wooden stalls each filled with huge angry pigs and their squealing babies. Romeo barked and stirred up each box until I admitted I was wrong and turned back to wade through the deep water as Romeo had first shown me.
Once I was headed in the right direction, Romeo played and hunted through the canal while I kept a look out for any sea snakes lurking in the mangroves. On one side of the channel was the private -Turtle island. My host family's sister-in-law was a house keeper there back a few years ago when Britney Spears stayed and also for Jennifer Aniston. We made our way around the island to the tip and I could easily identify blue lagoon by the small motor boats resting in the waters surrounded by snorkelers. So I quickly dropped my bag and headed into the water with my mask. Romeo didn't hesitate either and swam right along side of me just like he'd done it a million times. He lasted about 20 mins before going back up to the beach for a little nap. There were a few fish but mostly dying coral. The boat operators where feeding the fish which i think is the only reason any fish were sticking around at all. But people seemed to be pretty impressed. I was keeping one eye on my stuff and one on Romeo and so I was able to watch as a local boat operator threw coconuts at Romeo until he ran off. I considered asking him why he'd run my innocent dog off but I figured it was just business as usual and I had to walk through a few resorts to get back home so figured better now than later.
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| Romeo and the Tea House |
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| Hunting |
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| Blue Lagoon Beach |
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| Coconut Jewelry Making |
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| Coconut Bracelet Sanding, Step 5 |
Next day breakfast was about 25 donuts with another side of jelly.
The next island stop was to Drawaqa Island and a stay at Barefoot Manta with a chance to see the migration of the enormous Manta Rays. Despite the name, Barefoot Manta wasn't so barefoot friendly after the Cyclone with debris and construction everywhere. I met a French guy who was training for a triathlon and was able to join him a few times for long swims into the ocean to hopefully burn off the mountains of carbs I had been living on the last week.
I spent my last few nights on Kuata Island with breathtaking views of Wayalailai island with its peaks and dancing rock warriors that protect the coastline.
I Had been sick for about three days, migraine, bad taste in my mouth, huge blister on my check. I am really in need of some fruits and veggies!
But finally began feeling myself and went on my first Kuata adventure, 20 mins off the beach I run right into a white tip reef shark and then about 15 mins later an adolescent Hawksbill sea turtle! Was so excited I had to turn back just to tell someone.
Stayed 4 nights in Kuata, every day just got better and better I felt like part of a family by the end. Woke up for 7:30 breakfast, Neopolean, a Fijian that makes coconut jewelry met me to give me a tour and history lesson of the island and up to the caves. I've never sweated so much in my life but as Neopolean pulled out a flatten cardboard "blanket" I started to regret agreeing to the history lesson. I was polite and patient and listened to him tell me he liked the way I spoke when we met at jewelry making. That he thought to himself, she must me a lawyer or teacher. I've gotten that quite a bit on my travels. I have concluded it's a combination of my slow Texas drawl and all my work with kids that makes me a pleasant and easy foreigner to listen to.
After the hike I hung out with the cleaning staff for a bit joking and spreading gossip. Oh and welcomed the new 17 guests in from the boat with traditional singing and clapping. Spent my last day swimming, paddle boarding and taking a quick power nap before the afternoon rain rolled in. I'm off to the mainland after 12 days at sea!
I was skeptical. Fijians have a reputation of being the friendliest people in the world!! And I'm here to tell you it's pretty damn accurate. There could be a few reasons for this. Once I asked the dive crew where the best snorkeling off this particular island was, his answer- it's all the best. And this is a genuine belief. And not just becuase they live in paradise. The Fijians believe in a communal community. No one is trying to get a head of someone else, we will all get on the bus, the boat, wherever, you won't get left out and this goes with their saying, Fiji time- No rush, no worries, it'll happen when it happens.
Last 6 nights where spent in Nadi. I made some good travel buddies mostly from Australia and Germany and prepared myself for the long adventure back home.
Next stop the aloha state and then H-town bound Baby!
Until Next time, Peace!
Until Next time, Peace!
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